The USP of Kalamkari sarees is their prints. Let us find out the right way of styling Kalamkari sarees so that these prized possessions can really shine through. But before getting into draping and styling Kalamkari, let us briefly examine the fabrics, colors, techniques, and motifs of this ancient art form.
Fabrics
The fabric of authentic Kalamkari exudes a creamy glow owing to its treatment with buffalo milk and myrobalan nuts. Pure cotton and silk are ideal for hand-painted and hand-blocked Kalamkari work. Artists of the hand-painted Srikalahasti style mostly prefer working with cotton and chanderi because the texture of these fabrics is perfect to work with and accentuates the beauty of the painting.
Techniques and Motifs
Kalamkari styles classified on the basis of techniques and motifs are Masulipatnam and Srikalahasti. The Kalamkari of Masulipatnam exhibit a dominant of Persian style and themes, owing to the influence of artisans that flourished under the patronage of Muslim rulers of the Golconda Sultanate. This style popularised the use of pen to fill in the finer details within hand-blocked patterns. The Mughal motifs of Kalamkari reflect Mughal art and architecture, distinguished by vibrant hues and painstakingly etched floral and geometrical patterns.
Srikalahasti style depicted stories from epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata and portrayed gods and mythical heroes. This school of Kalamkari presumably thrived on temple grounds, and these paintings adorned the temples as flags and scrolls. Artisans of this tradition use pens freely to create silhouettes and fill them with colorful patterns.
Colors
Specific colors are designated to paint specific images in Kalamkari art. While gods are blue and demons red and green, women are almost always yellow.
Kalamkari colors are earthy, ranging from natural brown, maroon, mustard, yellow, rust, grey, black, and indigo to green. It is mainly vegetable dyes that contribute to the natural shades of all traditionally block-printed fabrics. Some minerals, like alum, iron, copper, and tin, are also used as dyes and mordants.
Styling Kalamkari Sarees with the right accessories
Footwear
Get the focus on your saree by wearing high heels. Heels will allow the saree to fall gracefully and let you flaunt its bold colors and prints.
Jewellery
Heavy south Indian jewelry and temple jewelry perfectly complement a Kalamkari saree adorned with traditional prints. Keep this in mind while styling Kalamkari sarees: wispy necklaces and tiny studs can get lost in the glory of the prints.
Blouse
Do not wear lavishly embroidered designer blouses with a Kalamkari saree. It is the prints that make a Kalamkari saree, and wearing blouses with details can not only takes the focus off the saree but also mar the look, as saree and blouse patterns are bound to clash. Instead, opt for blouses in solid colors that compliment your saree without drawing attention to itself. The most you can have is a little bit of the same design as the saree on the sleeves.
Finally, do not overdo the pleats and conceal the prints while draping the saree. As you drape, aim for that carefully careless look and let the artwork show without being obvious.
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